Roman & ancientDalmatia

Burnum: the Roman legionary camp above the Krka gorge

Burnum was a Roman legionary fortress, later a town, in inland Dalmatia, about 2.5 km north of Kistanje. Today two tall stone arches from the headquarters building and a rock-cut amphitheatre are the most visible remains. Locals know the arches as the Hollow Church (Šuplja crkva), and the site makes a rewarding stop for anyone interested in how Rome held the Dalmatian interior.

Roman soldiers cut an amphitheatre for some 6,000 spectators straight into the karst bedrock here, and the camp drank water that travelled 32.6 km through an entirely underground aqueduct.

WhereIvoševci, about 2.5 km north of Kistanje, inland Dalmatia (roughly 19 km from Knin on the road towards Zadar)

TypeRoman legionary fortress and later town: arches of the principia, amphitheatre, aqueduct

Best forRoman history, archaeology, off-the-beaten-path stops between Knin and Zadar

Getting thereBy road, on the route between Knin and Zadar; the arches stand beside the road and the amphitheatre lies about 1 km to the south-west

The history of Burnum

The name Burnum first appears in Pliny the Elder, who lists it among fortresses “famous for their battles” in this part of Dalmatia. That original Burnum was a hillfort on the left bank of the Krka, near the village of Puljane; the Roman camp across the river later took its name.

The legionary fortress dates from the reign of Augustus. Legio XX Valeria Victrix was stationed here at the time of the Great Illyrian Revolt (AD 6–9), because Rome needed to control traffic around the Krka. Building was started by the governor of Dalmatia, Publius Cornelius Dolabella, and continued under Emperor Claudius. After Legio XX moved to Germania Inferior, Legio XI took its place, and the fortress reached its final form around AD 50. Legio IIII Flavia Felix later followed it. Some sources say that the revolt of Lucius Arruntius Camillus Scribonianus against Claudius in AD 42 began in this camp.

The principia, the headquarters building at the centre of the camp, was first completed under Tiberius at 46 by 53 metres. After the rebellion it was enlarged to about 104 by 73 metres, with two long wings of legionary offices around an arcaded courtyard and, at the rear, a shrine for the battle standards. Under Hadrian, once the garrison had left, it was turned into a civil basilica with a courtroom, market and meeting place. The two arches visible today are generally attributed to this basilica.

After the last legions departed, Burnum developed into an urban settlement and, according to Italian Wikipedia, became a municipium in the 2nd century. It was abandoned for good in the 6th century, during the fighting between Justinian and the Ostrogoths. A church later occupied part of the ruins, which explains the folk name Hollow Church.

Scholarly interest began in the 19th century with the Croatian archaeologists Lujo Marun and Frane Bulić; the first excavations were carried out by Austrian archaeologists, and the Austrian Archaeological Institute returned in 1912–1913 and 1973. Since 2002 the University of Zadar, together with Bologna and the Drniš city museum, has been investigating the legionary camp.

Curiosities about Burnum

The amphitheatre was cut into the karst bedrock by soldiers of Legio XI, had four entrances and could hold about 6,000 spectators; it was later handed over to civilian use.
Coins found in the amphitheatre allow parts of it to be dated to the reign of Claudius.
The aqueduct from Plavno Polje ran entirely underground for about 32.6 km, dropping 170 m between source and town, so the water stayed cool in summer and could not freeze in winter.
A local legend says two suitors raced for one woman, one building a town and the other an aqueduct. The earth dug out for the aqueduct became a hill, and the village on it is still called Radučka glavica after the builder, Rade.
Burnum is one of many Balkan ruins that folklore calls Trajan’s Town (Trojanov Grad).
The Paduan abbot Alberto Fortis described the ruins in his 1774 travel book on Dalmatia, when they were in better condition than today.

Tours near Burnum

Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:

Etnoland MULTIMEDIA EXPERIENCE Skip-the-line

★ 5 (66 reviews) · 1 h

See details ›

Tour Electric Bike Ride Through the Krka National Park

★ 5 (50 reviews) · 8 h

See details ›

Private Boat tour to the Blue Lagoon & Solta - Swim, Snorkel, Tan and Relax!

★ 5 (42 reviews) · 7 h

See details ›

Split to Dubrovnik Private Transfer with 5-Course Lunch Included

★ 5 (39 reviews) · 5 h

See details ›

Visiting Burnum

The site has two separate parts: the two arches of the principia, beside the road from Knin towards Zadar, and the amphitheatre on the western side of the road, about 1 km to the south-west.
Behind the arches the Krka gorge opens out, where a natural tufa barrier forms a lake upstream and the Manojlovac waterfall downstream.
Traces of the camp’s ramparts can still be seen, and a smaller military training camp nearby has been excavated. The site is only partly investigated, so do not expect a fully reconstructed ruin.
Finds from Burnum are in museums such as the Archaeological Museum of Zadar. Check the current opening hours of any museum before you go.
The Krka monastery and Knin Fortress lie within a short drive and combine well with a stop here.

Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.

Map: where Burnum is

Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors

Photos of Burnum

Questions

What is Burnum in Croatia?

Burnum is the site of a Roman legionary fortress, later a town, near Kistanje in inland Dalmatia. The visible remains include two arches of the headquarters building, an amphitheatre and parts of an aqueduct.

Where is Burnum and how do you get there?

It lies at Ivoševci, about 2.5 km north of Kistanje and roughly 19 km from Knin on the road towards Zadar. The arches stand beside the road.

Why is Burnum called the Hollow Church?

The surviving arches are locally known as Šuplja crkva, or Hollow Church. A church is thought to have occupied part of the ruins in later centuries.

How big was the Roman amphitheatre at Burnum?

It is estimated to have held about 6,000 spectators. It had four entrances and was cut into the karst bedrock by legionaries.

Who was stationed at Burnum?

Several legions in turn, starting with Legio XX Valeria Victrix, followed by Legio XI and later Legio IIII Flavia Felix.

Is Burnum worth a stop between Knin and Zadar?

For anyone interested in Roman history it is a good detour. It is a lesser-known site with open-air ruins, and the Krka monastery and Knin Fortress are nearby.